The West Forbes/Montoya Route on Baboquivari - 2005


Baboquivari

My friend Mike was recently married to Valerie and I thought it would be fun if we did a repeat trip to Baboquivari with the wives. We were better prepared for this trip than last year's trip in that my wife, Vivian, is an experienced lead belayer and Valerie was an experienced climber as well. We also picked a day for climbing that was near perfect - about 80 degrees at the base and about 60 degress at the summit, thus we didn't have to struggle up the ladder pitch on wet rock like we did last year. This web page documents the hiking and climbing that was done on Friday, May 6, 2005.

Like the web page I did last year on the Forbes/Montoya Route this web page is intended to provide local and non-local readers with information to determine if they want to do the same route and to provide some additional logistical and photographic information.

Warning!

Although the Forbes/Montoya route on Baboquivari is a serious backcountry climb, this year, on dry rock, with an experienced belayer, the route didn't seem as formidible as last year. The protection is still not very good, but a new bolt has been added by the Leeper hanger/buttonhead and a two-bolt belay station has been added beneath the tree at the top of the climb (see photos below). The belay is well placed for the rappel but is a little tricky to get to, especially if you are wearing hiking boots. I ended up belaying the other three members of our party to the belay station for their rappel.

Access Warning!

The west approach to Baboquivari is on the Tohono O’odham reservation south of Sells. Before getting to Baboquivari park and the west trailhead, there are two signs saying that permits are required in the area. One sign is south of Sells on the highway and the other sign is about two miles from Baboquivari park. I received this e-mail from Eric Wakild last year describing some of the problems he encountered on his return trip from Topawa to Tucson:

Before I got back to Sells, Border Patrol pulled me over and checked my car for weapons/drugs. The interesting thing is that they told me that I couldn't be there (driving on this road) because I wasn't Native American. They referred to a white sign about 5 miles south of Sells that says something to the effect of the land being off limits to people. They said they could call the Tohono O'odam Police Dept. and they would confiscate my car.

I recently received an e-mail from Gary Sax describing how he got a permit and he gave me phone numbers and fax numbers as well:

The district office is open only M-F but I called them and they were very helpful in processing a permit for us via fax. They accepted our promise to send a check for $10 (and I did send it). The tel# for the Baboquivari district office is 520 383 2366. The fax is 520 383 4622. I dealt with Darlene and she was very helpful.

The procedure for getting a permit is fairly simple. You first need to get a copy of the form and fill it out. Next the form has to be sent to the district office or given to Darlene for a signature along with the appropriate payment. Finally, the permit is returned to the originator. It should be displayed where it can easily be seen. There are many ways that you can do this. Probably the simplest way is to mail the form to the district office with the payment and a self-addressed stamped envelope. This would require about one week advanced planning. Another way is to do it like Gary did and fax the form to the office and have them fax the signed permit back (I would recommend calling the office before faxing the form). Note that the office is open from 8 AM to 5 PM, Monday through Friday.

Permit
Click on image for a PDF of the form

I called the office and talked to Darlene. I asked her what time she was going to be in the office on Friday and she said 8:00. I said I would be passing the office at about 7:30 and she said she could open the office early and be there at that time. We arrived right on time but Darlene was about 15 minutes late. She said she had to go through two Border Patrol stops.

Tohono O’odham Update

The Tohono O’odham appear to have big plans for small village of Topawa. Darlene said that they are building a new cultural center about 1/2 mile east of the district office and it would be ready in about six months. When we drove by the area, the vegetation had been leveled and it looked like construction was already underway. She also wanted us to fill out a questionnaire. She said that the Tohono O’odham were considering building a casino and resort (I believe in Topawa). Although it sounds a little strange at first, considering that there is nothing out there, if the casino/resort were successful, it would provide a lot of jobs in the area (including Sells).

The Day

We met Mike and Valerie at 6:00 in the morning at Broadway and Wilmot. We shot out to Sells and then headed south to Topawa. We got the the Baboquivari Waw:Giwulk District Office at 7:30. Darlene was going to meet us there at 7:30 but didn't show up until about 7:45. She said she was late because she had to go through two Border Patrol stops. While we were waiting, Border Patrol vehicle after Border Patrol vehicle headed south so her story was certainly believable. It seemed like there were about five Border Patrol vehicles for each civilian vehicle on the highway. After we got our permit, we headed to Baboquivari Park in my 1998 Toyota Camry (I couldn't fit four of us in my truck). We could barely make it into the park in the Toyota and we did strike bottom in a wash on the way out.

There was one car at the park when we got there and we hit the trail at about 8:40. It was a great day for getting out and we motored right up the trail. About halfway to the peak, we encountered a beehive hanging in a small tree. It was right over the trail and hanging about head height. It was not in a good location and it was difficult getting around it. Fortunately, there were no incidents.

We got to the "Great Ramp" about 11:45 and then started up the ramp. I was feeling good and headed out onto the slab. For the most part, the slab climbing wasn't too difficult, but towards the top, it got to my wife and she needed help making it through the last section. Mike followed in the rear until that time and then he headed over close to the wall. This turned out to be much easier than going up the slab.

The climbing was much easier than the last time I did the route. The route was dry and the climbing was very straightforward. There were a couple of improvements to the route over the last time I climbed it. There was a new bolt next to the Leeper hanger/buttonhead and there was a new two-bolt anchor to the left of the tree. The new bolt hangers were all standard Metolius bolt hangers.

We hit the summit about 2:15 and hung out until about 3:00. We made it back to the car about 7:15. I was hoping that the bees were swarming (not a hive) and they had moved on, but they were still there and the consensus of the group was that it was a hive. The only hives I have seen are the ones in white boxes so I have no idea what a hive in the wild looks like.

When I initially mentioned doing the route to Mike, one of the first things that he asked was if we could stop at the Three Points Restaurant again (like we did last year). I said it was O.K. with me. When we got in the car, Mike was hungry and it was obvious that he wanted to get to Three Points as fast as possible. Getting the Camry out of the desert seemed like it took forever and we didn't make it to Three Points until 9:00. The sign outside the Restaurant said that they closed at 9:00 and Mike was panic-stricken. He went into the Restaurant to see if they would serve us. I joked that I could see him on his knees pleading with them to serve us. He finally came back out and said that they would serve us burgers (which is what we wanted). The waitress was very friendly and she had some very appreciative customers. They seemed very surprised at our enthusiasm.

Logistics


Highway sign Highway sign between Sells and Topawa stating that the area is restricted.
District Office Baboquivari Waw:Giwulk District Office sign.
Park Sign Sign outside of Baboquivari Park saying, "Baboquivari Park -> Permits required for non members"
Trail sign The sign in Baboquivari park that marks the start of the trail. It was knocked down when we returned to the car and Vivian set it back upright. The sign is split in two and the top half is not attached to the post.
First tank About 50 yards from the trailhead, you pass by this empty water tank. This photo was taken on the way out at dusk.
Second tank Continue down the trail past a second water tank.
Second trail sign About 200 yards past the second water tank, the trail heads to the right (south). A sign marks the trail but it is in poor condition and may not be there for long.
Mike and Valerie Mike and Valerie on the trail.
Hive The beehive. Note that the trail goes right under the hive.
Baboquivari Vivian, Valerie and Mike on the trail - Baboquivari in the background.
Trees Entering the trees near the peak.
Peak The peak is getting near.
Great Ramp The "Great Ramp". Note that the easiest route that we could find was to the right along the wall. The slab climbing on the ramp is fun but it is unprotected and in spots, it is more difficult than the "Ladder Pitch."
Start of Ladder Pitch The start of the "Ladder Pitch."
Climbing Half way up the "Ladder Pitch" - taking photos of the new bolt and bolt hanger.
Valerie Valerie coming up the "Ladder Pitch" and unclipping the rope at the second bolt(s).
New bolt The new Metolius hanger/bolt next to the Leeper hanger/buttonhead. I like the fact that the old Leeper hanger/buttonhead were left in place but I wasn't too excited about the new bolt - it looked a lot like the old buttonhead.
Two bolt belay The new two-bolt belay to the left of the tree at the top of the climb.
Above the ladder pitch Heading south above the top of the "Ladder Pitch."
Crease There is a small crease that has to be climbed before reaching the peak.
Vivian Vivian above the crease.
Summit Heading to the summit cairn. Mike had the women go first since they had not been to the top before.
Cairn The summit cairn.
Vivian, Mike, and Valerie Vivian, Mike, and Valerie enjoying the summit. Life is good...
Afternoon The afternoon view of Baboquivari.
South The view to the south.
Down the trail Heading down the trail.
Bees The bees are still there... Is that what a beehive in the wild looks like?
White goop This is all that remained of the bees the following week. A bunch of white goop on the branch. It makes you wonder what they were up to.
Hiking More hiking photos...
Scenary The scenary is spectacular. The only thing it needs is a casino and resort...
Snake? At first, Vivian thought this was a worm, but it looks like a snake - or maybe a legless lizard?
Almost done... Almost back to the trailhead...

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Copyright: 2005, RAHutchins
Revised: May 15, 2005
Corrections/Comments: bob@climbaz.com
URL: http://www.climbaz.com