Candyland is a new area that is being developed by Ben Burnham, Kurt Schroder, Don Vandergriff and his climbing partner Scott. The wall is south of Green Slabs and near Old Man Stone Face. It is south facing and a very pleasant place to climb on a cool winter day. There are two bolted climbs in the 5.10+ range, a mixed 5.9+ climb, and two gear climbs.
To get to Candyland follow the directions in "Squeezing the lemmon II..." by Eric Fazio-Rhicard or Climbaz.com for Old Man Stone Face. When you get up onto the top of the ridge above Green Slabs, look to the east. The view should be similar to the first photo shown in the table below. Candyland in about 200 yards to the east along the top of the ridge. There should be cairns and a noticable trail.
Rating: 5.10d
Butter Fingers is the bolted climb on the left of the wall. It has the same start as Candy Kisses but heads left above the first bolt. It is 36' 4" tall and it has its own chain anchors. Both anchors are attached to cold-shuts and the left anchor has 8 links and the right anchor has 2 links.
Bolt Number | Bolt Height | Run-out | Fall Estimate | Ground Margin | Ground Risk |
1 | 13' 8" | 13' 8" | 13' 8" | 0' | yes - use spotter |
2 | 18' 3" | 4' 7" | 14' 2" | 9' 1" | yes |
3 | 25' 6" | 7' 3" | 19' 6" | 11' 0" | |
Anchors | 36' 4" | 10' 10" | 26' 8" | 14' 8" |
Rating: 5.10c
Candy Kisses is the second climb from the left of the wall. It has the same start as Butter Fingers but heads straight up above the first bolt. It is 31' 7" tall and it has its own chain anchors. Both anchors have 6 links and are attached to cold-shuts.
Bolt Number | Bolt Height | Run-out | Fall Estimate | Ground Margin | Ground Risk |
1 | 10' 6" | 10' 6" | 10' 6" | 0' | yes - use spotter |
2 | 15' 11" | 5' 5" | 15' 10" | 5' 1" | yes |
3 | 23' 6" | 7' 7" | 20' 2" | 8' 4" | yes |
Anchors | 31' 7" | 8' 1" | 21' 2" | 15' 5" |
Rating: 5.9+
Peanut Brittle is the left crack climb (Mt. Lemmon crack). It is a 38' 8" tall mixed climb with one bolt and it shares the anchors with Sugar Daddy. Each anchor is a chain anchor attached to cold-shuts. The right anchor has 8 links and the left anchor has 10 links.
Bolt Number | Bolt Height | Run-out |
1 | 10' 8" | 10' 8" |
Anchors | 38' 8" | 28' 0" |
Rating: 5.8+
Sugar Daddy is the right crack climb (Mt. Lemmon crack). It is a 36' 10" tall gear climb and it shares the anchors with Peanut Brittle. Each anchor is a chain anchor attached to cold-shuts. The right anchor has 8 links and the left anchor has 10 links.
Rating: 5.7+
Pixie Sticks is on the right, around the corner from the other climbs (see photos above). The easiest start is down below the ledge near the Manzanita. The climb is 64' 3" tall and it has one 3/8" bolt. There are two chain anchors on the climb with each anchor having 6 links attached to cold-shuts.
Bolt Number | Bolt Height | Run-out |
1 | 41' 0" | 41' 0" |
Anchors | 64' 3" | 23' 3" |